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Getting My Farmer’s Tan

I have been doing some pruning over the past several weeks.  Pruning is a very relaxing activity for me.  I like to approach a tree, make a quick mental note of the problem two or three major branches that need action, and wade in.  Of course, my focus is on fruit quality first and foremost.

I spent some time pruning some older apple trees earlier this week.  My emphasis was on keeping the tops narrow so that precious sunlight could penetrate the entire canopy.  I always try to identify those few branches which, if removed entirely, meet my goals for the tree.

For the tree below, the complete removal of several large branches that are casting heavy shading on fruiting wood below is essential.  If the top of this tree is not narrowed, lower branches will quickly become non-fruiting.

Mature apple tree before pruning. Photo: W. Lord

Mature apple tree before pruning.  Photo: W. Lord

Same tree as above after pruning.  Photo: W. Lord

Same tree as above after pruning. Photo: W. Lord

Pruning these older trees takes time and a lot of looking up.  The concept of the farmer’s tan fits well here as only the uncovered skin, the face, gets that been south look.

One pleasant surprise so far this winter has been the lack of deer activity in orchards. Oh, there is still some, and in places it is resulting in severe damage to trees, but compared to the past several years, damage is light so far.  Orchards and the surrounding woods have relatively light snow cover of late and perhaps that plus a good mast crop of nuts nearby has helped.  Of course, the highest risk part of the winter for deer damage has yet to come…

Interested in attending one of the many pruning demonstrations offered by UNH Cooperative Extension?  The next one is set for Saturday, March 6 at Beaver Pond Farm in Newport.  Follow this link for complete details -  Meeting Notice

Bill Lord, February 18, MMX

Comments

Comment from carl
Time February 21, 2010 at 7:26 am

Bill,I like the way you don’t “pinch back”the limbs that you have left.Nice job,your hired!
carl

Comment from steve
Time February 21, 2010 at 8:53 pm

Noticing some bark splitting , mostly on M7 /mac. what do you think?

Comment from Bill
Time February 22, 2010 at 7:58 pm

Bark splitting on the southwest side of the tree trunk is called, get this, Southwest Injury. What happens is that the sun beating in on the southwest side of the trunk on bright, windless winter afternoons warms the bark. When night falls, moisture in the tissue freezes. Ice takes up more space than water, and the expansion causes the bark to break loose of the wood below and split. This separation allows the reproductive tissue that separates the bark from the hardwood below to dry, and die. Young trees in particular should be protected from the risk of southwest injury. In late fall, paint the trunk up through the first whorl of branches with a mixture of 1 part interior latex paint (white) and one part water. This will reflect light and reduce its warming effects.

Check tree bark. If it is pulled away from the trunk, try stapling it back in place. If it has not yet dried out, this may reduce the eventual girdling injury that will occur.

In some years, vertical splits that go deep into the wood occur. Generally this happens on those very cold nights when temperatures fall well below zero. If the bark is not separated from the wood below, the tree will return to normal once it warms and no significant injury will result. In January of 1981, NH experienced a lot of cold with several nights below -20 and even lower. One block of apple trees in Londonderry had incredible splitting damage with vertical splits up to 7 feet long and over 10 inches deep into the heart of the trunk. Interestingly, no bark separation occurred and as a result, trees showed no ill effects come summer. I will include pictures of that damage in a future post.
Bill Lord

Comment from Bill
Time February 22, 2010 at 8:01 pm

Thanks, Carl.

As you probably have guessed, I like to prune and I focus on large cuts that get the job done. The key for larger trees is to keep the top narrow and I ENJOY making those large cuts. As for pinching back branches, that is what deer do. I have yet to see any tree they prune bear many apples.
Bill Lord

Comment from Jason Weir
Time March 7, 2010 at 9:00 pm

Bill,

I attended one of your wonderful pruning classes a few years back – thanks again.

This spring I’m going to be planting 25 new semi-dwarf rootstocks and am looking for some scion wood – with pruning in full swing I would expect this to be in abundance.

I’m looking for 10 different good eating\cooking\cider varieties not real picky and suggestions would be helpful..

Thanks,
Jason Weir
Chichester

Comment from Kitt Plummer
Time March 8, 2010 at 5:44 pm

Bill,
I am in the process of pruning my brother in law Dan Hazeltons orchard in Chester in preparation for running it as a pick your own this fall. I am working with Julio,Raul and Hector Otero. These guys are great with the apples but none of us however has any experience pruning peaches. Are there any demonstrations coming up?

Comment from Bill
Time March 9, 2010 at 9:28 am

Hi Kitt,

There will be a tree fruit twilight meeting at Moosehill Orchard in Londonderry on April 21. Moosehill has many peaches and we will spend some time pruning during the field tour portion of the meeting.

Comment from Bill
Time March 9, 2010 at 9:39 am

This is a great time to collect scion wood. Select smooth, upright, vegetative shoots (those pesky suckers in the tops of trees), place in a clean, food grad plastic bag with a small wad of moist paper towel or sphagnum moss, and store in refrigerator until grafting time in late April. Be sure to label each variety. To get scion wood, find a local source such a neighbor’s trees or contact a nursery that sells scion wood (Fedco Tree in Waterville, Maine is one that comes to mind). I select varieties to graft based on my personal preferences – Macoun, Mutsu, Honeycrisp, Cortland, Silken – these are among my favorites. Many newer varieties are patented and propagation of these can be done only with written permission of the originator (plus payment of a royalty fee).

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